Come to Cromer

When you think of Cromer, the image of a base for a weekend soaking up the local history and heritage doesn’t necessarily spring to mind.  Succulent Cromer crab, buckets and spades, and even the RNLI might be in the forefront of your thoughts, yes, but stately homes and steam trains?  Well you’d be surprised! Anyone that knows Mr Lighty and I knows that we do like to be beside the seaside, but we recently discovered that Norfolk is rich in local culture, too, and Cromer, as a base, is an excellent choice.

Cromer

A beautiful base deserves a beautiful B&B

Of course, any minimoon that Mr Lighty and I go on needs to have a fabulous Bed and Breakfast at its heart.  The last time I was in this part of the East of England was on an A-Level Geograph field trip some 13 years ago, so I was pleasantly surprised when Cromer managed to excel itself in this area. Time for a bold statement: the Wellington House B&B was probably the best bed and breakfast we’d ever stayed in.

Located in the very heart of Cromer, just one road away from the seafront, our hosts couldn’t do enough for us, and nothing could beat falling asleep to the sound of the North Sea lapping at the shore just a few feet away. After a breakfast cooked to order, our B&B set us up each morning for a day spent exploring the Norfolk countryside.

And so our National Trust quest begins...

So, getting back to that history and heritage: having recently acquired National Trust membership, Norfolk is an excellent place to ‘do the rounds’.  Our delve into history started at Anglesey Abbey en route to Cromer (which is technically in Cambridgeshire, but who’s counting?!).  The weather was fine and bright as we arrived at this Jacobean House, which made for excellent viewing-of-the-impressive-gardens-conditions. 

Anglesey Abbey

The silver birch garden, studded underfoot by a carpet of tulipa (mini tulips) was personally my favourite part of the gardens, but the overall effect of the delightful secret-garden style doorways and mirror-clear canal added up to a beautifully landscaped space.  The grounds are also home to a working mill, and the house itself is homely yet stately at the same time.

The Silver Birch Garden

Peacocks and Poultry

On Saturday, our membership took us to Felbrigg Hall.  For me, the highlight of the visit, was the secret garden, with its peacocks and chickens wandering freely. Of course, the house itself was also very interesting – particularly the peculiar slipper bath on display, and the library with its tales of spooky sightings – but there was something quite lovely, almost mythical, about wandering around the gardens with beautiful creatures nearby.

A Peacock at Felbrigg

We were also lucky enough to see a rare highlight of any visit to Felbrigg, which is the Estate Office.  Not often open to the public due to volunteer shortages, we were lucky to visit on a day when staffing allowed the room to be open, meaning that we were able to see where the estate workers would have queued, in the open air and in all weathers, to pay their dues.

The Felbrigg Estate

The Blickling Estate was also on our agenda during this weekend in Norfolk, and although arguably the most impressive of the three properties visited, I think this was probably the least ‘us’.  Maybe it was just a little too formal for our liking, although the living history recordings by the former workers certainly brought the house to life, but I just can’t imagine having lived in such grandeur.  

The Blickling Estate

And a little bit of being beside the seaside thrown in too

Of course, that’s not to say that our weekend didn’t include some more light-hearted visits too, with a trip to the lovely, if still fairly small, Amazonia Zoo (which is within walking distance of Cromer town centre, and makes for a charming stroll through the countryside on a sunny Easter Sunday morning). My obsession with beach huts also took us to tiny nearby Mundesley, and Sheringham, where we saw the North Norfolk Steam train depart.

The North Norfolk Steam Railway

Beach Huts at Mundesley

If you’re looking for seaside attraction, then Cromer won’t disappoint: fabulous restaurants and a long stretch of sandy and shingle beach make it a great mini break destination. Throw in a historic pier, the interesting RNLI museum dedicated to the life of Henry Blogg, and the usual amusement arcades and penny-drop machines and you’ve got yourself a friendly seaside resort. The history and heritage nearby just adds the cherry on the cake...

Cromer Pier

A bonny Bonn Blog

Before I launch into my ‘gone to Bonn’ blog, firstly I must apologise for the inactivity of late; major house renovations followed by  a major birthday celebration followed by major Christmas hosting preparations have meant that I haven’t been travelling nearly as much as I would have liked to this year!  However, I was lucky enough to have escaped to Bonn on a working weekend recently.

Having never been to the former capital of West Germany, I had high expectations of the city, given its history - not to mention the fact that it is the birthplace of one of Germany’s most famous sons, Beethoven.  And it was to be Beethoven that was the focus of our bonny weekend in Bonn, as we were lucky enough to be there for the famous Beethoven festival!

Blink and you’ll miss it!

As always with work familiarisation trips, there just isn’t enough time to see and do everything you’d like to.  The Saturday morning, our first full day in Bonn having arrived at 11pm the night before, saw us taking the tram to nearby Königswinter.  Situated approximately half an hour’s tram or boat ride away, Königswinter is a charming little suburb of Bonn.  Much more traditionally German than the former capital, after our obligatory hotel inspection, we took the time to undertake a little ‘Stadtbümmel’ through the town to get a feel for the place.  My colleague and I were struck by how quiet and peaceful the town was, especially for a Saturday. 

As most people seemed to be enjoying a Stein of beer, or a glass of Prosecco, which appears to be the most popular of wine choices in Germany at the moment, we decided it was high time that we joined them in this relaxing approach to a Saturday morning.  Having already spotted a gorgeous looking restaurant perched high above the Rhine, with a terrace overlooking the river, we enjoyed a glass or two whilst taking in the commanding views of the Rhine Valley.  Had duty not called, I could have quite easily whiled away an hour or two sitting there in the late September sunshine; perhaps with a good book, perhaps just people watching!

Enjoying a little glass of Prosecco gespritzt with Aperol!

Bonn in all its Beethoven glory

After journeying back to Bonn, and stopping for a very, very quick look at Museum Mile en route – which I have to admit I was a little disappointed with, having expected it to be more like Museum Island in Berlin, but finding it to be a stretch of busy road with little character – it was time to meet the crowd who would become our travelling companions.

Our official day then began with a Beethoven themed guided tour, which would eventually take in his birth house and the Chamber Music Hall.  Bonn’s old town is typically German, with an impressive cathedral and market square, presided over by Beethoven.  Our guide told us an amusing anecdote of how, when the seat of the government officially moved back to Berlin after German reunification, students draped Beethoven in a banner stating, “You can all go to Berlin....but I’m staying put!”.  The allure of the city clearly had the student’s hooked!

Bonn Cathedral

Classical music philistines?!

The Beethoven Festival was, of course, to be our main focus of the weekend.  After a fabulous dinner in a restaurant overlooking the river, which included three differently flavoured soups served in three espresso cups – something I’d never seen before! – it was time for the concert.  We were to be treated to a performance by the Bamberg Symphony Orchestra, with the first half being an ‘orchestral painting, colour intensive’ piece by Witold Lutosławski, Symphony No. 3. 

I must admit, I am not an expert in classical music by any stretch of the imagination, but this piece really did go over my head!!  It seemed to have passed the other audience members by too, as, very audibly, someone in the gallery made if quite clear their feelings on the matter with a loud, shouted, German expletive just before the interval! 

After a quick champagne refuelling, it was time for Beethoven’s Symphony no. 5 – something which was much easier to follow, and I could certainly appreciate!

The Bamburg Symphony Orchestra

Relaxing on the Rhine: the perfect Sunday

Sunday dawned bright and early, and after a hearty breakfast, we set out for the Rhine.  This time, we cruised to Königswinter on board the Moby Dick.  It was just the relaxing start we needed, and was soon followed by an equally relaxing ride on the town’s little road train and then a trip on a traditional cog railway, the Drachenfelsbahn, up to Schloss Drachenburg. 

The Moby Dick

The Drachenfels Railway

This was definitely my highlight of the weekend, with the castle rising high into the air, gold and splendid, and set amongst well manicured grounds which must look magnificent in the summer.  Our guide was knowledgeable and amusing, entertaining us with stories of Mr Spinach and his fake organ recitals to entertain his guests in times gone by.  The Rhine is a stunning region of Germany, and Schloss Drachenburg is just one of the many castles which dots its landscape, adding an air of regal charisma into the already beautiful landscape.

Schloss Drachenburg

All in all, Bonn wasn’t at all what I expected it to be – I thought we would see and hear more of the history of its role within the FDR, but then we were there for a Beethoven themed tour, so perhaps this is something that could be explored on a return trip.  However, I wasn’t expecting the charm of nearby Königswinter, and particularly the splendour of Schloss Drachenburg; so perhaps one shouldn’t judge Bonn by its cover; perhaps we should look beyond the obvious, and uncover the gems that await us on the Rhine.

A case of Ostalgie and the first time visitor to Berlin

As you’ve probably come to realise, Berlin is one of my favourite cities.  Having visited twice before, it was therefore high time that I took Mr Lighty to Berlin.  Over the years we have developed something of a fascination with the history of the Deutsche Demokratik Republik (DDR) and former socialist countries; I’ve been lucky enough to visit quite a few ex-socialist countries, but Mr Lighty has only previously been to the Czech Republic.  It was lovely, therefore, to visit Berlin a third time with a first-time visitor and experience the city through their eyes – as well as indulge in a bit of Ostalgie.

DDR Luxury
For a short break where we were looking to soak up much of the communist history of Germany’s capital city, where better to stay than one of the country’s former most luxurious hotels of the DDR?  The Park Inn Hotel was built originally as the Stadt Hotel Berlin, which was used to house Comecon representatives in its time, and was the premier 4-star hotel of former East Berlin - it was even noted for having unusually fast lifts for the period!  Its location cannot be beaten, either, being centrally located at Alexanderplatz, overlooking the communist TV Tower (which is a very interesting visit in itself), and indeed, on our second day in the city, we made all of our visits on foot, walking a circular route from Alexanderplatz to the Brandenburg Gate, up to the Reichstag and down again past Potsdamer Platz, Checkpoint Charlie, Gendarmenmarkt and on to Museum Island and Berlin Cathedral.  It was lovely to experience the first sighting of the Brandenburg Gate and enjoy the Reichstag audio tour with Mr Lighty; two iconic Berlin landmarks, which for the first time visitor are a must.  Checkpoint Charlie, another must on Mr Lighty’s list, has become horribly touristy unfortunately, but the city can’t have everything!

The Park Inn Hotel at Alexanderplatz...  

...and the East German-built TV tower 
as viewed from our hotel window.

A step back in time
One of the first stops on our tour of all things East German was the DDR Museum.  This museum is dedicated to original artefacts from the period before German reunification.  With the likes of a recreated East German flat and a Trabant car, there’s plenty to engage the visitor within the hands-on museum.  It was really interesting to read about the products available (or not available, as the case often was) in the DDR, and to see how East Germany lived, but I did feel that it made the era feel like it was ‘fun’; yet I’m sure that if you lived in East Berlin at the time, it wasn’t fun in the slightest.  

Mr Lighty in a Trabant in the DDR Museum

A much more authentic experience, if you like, was our visit to the Stasi Headquarters.  The headquarters of the Staatsicherheit, or secret East German police, was ‘Haus 1’ (House 1), a highly secure compound which was the centre of the fight against enemies of the DDR from 1960 onwards, and was built as the seat of the offices of the Minister of State Security and the head of the Stasi, Erich Mielke.  In a bid to make that period of time more open and accessible to people, Haus 1 has now been opened to the public.  You have the sense that it has been left exactly as it was in Mielke’s time.  In fact, Mr Lighty didn’t take to the museum well – I’d never seen him so creeped out by anything!!  I’m pretty sure the museum’s tea room was the original canteen from the DDR;  complete with 1980s retro chairs and little more than a tea urn (although at €1.20 for a coffee including a biscuit, who’s complaining?), and I’d never seen a coffee drunk quicker than I did from Mr Lighty that day – he couldn’t get out of there fast enough!  There was definitely a sense of foreboding in the museum, and coupled with the Stasi records exhibition on Zimmerstrasse, it must have been terrifying to have lived through a period where your every move was watched and recorded.  Indeed, since the archives were opened to the public 20 years ago, there have been approximately 2.8 million requests from people wanting to read what Stasi spies wrote about them.

Haus 1, the Stasi Headquarters

'Enjoying' a cup of coffee in the Stasi Museum!

A foray into the West
Of course, Berlin isn’t just about East German history, and our trip also included excellent visits to the Olympic Stadium, and Berlin Zoo, both of which I hadn’t visited previously but was very impressed by.  The Olympic Stadium’s exhibition on its history, with particular reference to the National Socialist era, is well worth a visit, and although Berlin is a city which has been through a lot of traumatic history in recent years, it is also a city which is trying to be open and honest with the world to prevent it from happening again.  After three visits to this fascinating city, there’s still so much to see and do – the zoo being a case in point, as we simply didn’t have enough time to do it justice, having to get back to our hotel and on to the airport for our flight home that evening.  The one disappointment of this trip was the fact that we couldn’t do the Trabi tour I’d been so looking forward to doing, as we didn’t have the foresight to pre-book – we’ll just have to use it as an excuse to go back!   And with so much to see and do, I’m sure after Mr Lighty’s first experience of the city, he’ll be glad to join me.

Enjoying the view over the Olympic Stadium from the Bell Tower

Solihull, Stratford and Sex and the City

So it was recently that time of year again when aforementioned lovely friend 1 and I went to visit lovely friend 2.  As you may remember, lovely friend 1, Neil, and I have traipsed all over the country (and have even been to Europe!) to visit, lovely friend 2, Georgina, and this time our travels landed us in Solihull.  I, for one, wasn’t sure what to expect from this part of the country: I’d certainly never been to the country’s second city, which was where our train pulled into on the Friday evening, and despite Birmingham’s status as the second city, I have always felt that it is overshadowed in the media and travel-realms somewhat by the likes of Manchester, Liverpool and Newcastle.  Boy, were my preconceived ideas blown out of the water!  I was pleasantly surprised by how pretty the region is, and how many great visits are close at hand.  And what’s more, yet another fabulous weekend was spent with my lovely friends, to boot.

From left to right: lovely friends 2, 1 and myself!

First impressions: Marvellous Midlands

Upon arriving at Birmingham New Street, Neil and I were promptly whisked away by Georgina and Luke, who becomes lovely friend 3, to the wonderful Red Peppers Grill and Cantina within the Mailbox shopping and office complex.  The area surrounding the station is smart and upmarket and there are signs of renovation and regeneration in abundance, with the new station itself being a case in point.  I was certainly impressed with the atmosphere, menu and the decor of the restaurant itself.  Over one too many glasses of wine, the last 6 months or so of separated friendship fell away, and it was wonderful to catch up and laugh together once more.

Stratford, but not as we know it

After a leisurely breakfast and lots of tea and coffee, the Saturday was about exploring.  With the next statement I’m about to make, I would be ashamed to admit that I am a geography graduate: on our one full day in the Solihull area, we ventured out to Stratford-upon-Avon, and I never would have guessed that Shakespeare country was that close to Solihull!  You’ll remember from my previous post on York that Georgina makes for an excellent tour guide, and she also proved herself on this occasion to be an accomplished driver, too.   Setting off in trusty Mabel, the drive to Stratford-upon-Avon (or just simply Stratford, as the locals call it – not to be confused with Stratford in East London, which is local to Neil and I, and is therefore Stratford as we know it) was stunning – we were lucky with the weather, which helps of course, but even if we hadn’t been, it would have been easy to see the beauty of the surrounding countryside as we drove through the villages of Hockley Heath, Henley in Arden and Wootten Wawen.

Stratford Canal Boat

The RSC and spring blossoms

Stratford itself was also quaint and pretty, and after a pit stop for lunch in Othello’s, the plush restaurant of the Mercure hotel, we wandered the streets to the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, and up to the pretty canals.  The only disappointment of the day was the lack of gluten free cakes in the Hobson’s Patisserie tea rooms, and the attitude towards it from the staff too, with Neil backing my cause, but the building itself was beautiful – I had to make do with drooling over the non-gluten-freak cakes instead.  After a quick visit to the Christmas Shop (yes, the Christmas Shop, in April – and they wondered why business was slow!) we made our way back to Solihull.  No weekend with these particular lovely friends would be complete, of course, without cooking a delicious meal – tonight’s recipe was Chilli Con Carne – a few glasses of wine, and of course, the mandatory watching of Sex and the City – complete with live audio analysis, of course.

Gorgeous looking non-gluten-freak giant scones in Hobson's Patisserie

Short and sweet in Solihull

Our final day dawned bright.  We really were incredibly lucky with the weather!  And after more tea and coffee, there was just about time for a pub lunch in a trusty Weatherspoons in Solihull town centre.  We were struck by the fact that the pub didn’t feel like a Weatherspoons – the Midlands’ beauty was far reaching.  After a quick stroll down the highstreet to the pretty St. Alphege Parish Church, and a brief look in the smart Touchwood shopping centre, it was time to make our way back to the station, to say our goodbyes and make promises of future visits.  And, as Shakespeare himself once wrote, parting is such sweet sorrow: yet another weekend filled with good food, good fun, and most importantly, good friendship, was over.

St. Alphege Parish Church

For more travels with my lovely friends, why not check out my previous blog on Cool York? Visit: http://www.anansweronapostcard.blogspot.co.uk/2012_05_01_archive.html

A snapshot of Suffolk

It is starting to become a bit of a tradition for Mr Lighty and I to venture on what we term a ‘mini-moon’ every now and again.  So much so that every short break we go on is now called a mini-moon, even as we embarked on our second anniversary weekend – you’ve never been married long enough not to go on a mini-moon, after all!  And this time, our choice of mini-moon destination was to that most charming of English counties, Suffolk, on a perfect English Spring weekend, for a snapshot of what this coastline has to offer.

Lowly Lowestoft

We decided to base ourselves in the coastal town of Lowestoft.  One of the most important aspects for us of any of our mini-moons is our accommodation, and this weekend away was no exception.  We picked Lowestoft as a base, I must admit, more because of the fact that we liked the look of the quirky little B&B we stayed in more than due to any major research on the town itself – perhaps a rookie mistake for any travel junkie to make?  We were certainly not disappointed by our guesthouse, the Baytree House, which was full of character and warmth – not to mention a great breakfast, thirteen guinea pigs and seven pugs!

Lowestoft itself, however, looked like it could do with a little bit of love being injected.  It was a little tired, a little rough round the edges.  This isn’t to say that we didn’t enjoy our afternoon spent there; after a lovely gluten free scone and tea served in bone china cups at the Flying Fifteens tea house – which was again, full of character and charm – we whiled away an hour or two on the crazy golf course - not to mention the traditional seaside lure of the 2p drop machines!

Lowestoft South Pier

There were certainly hints of the town’s former charm to be seen; opposite the old town hall, now only used on polling day, there was a quirky chemist’s shop front, dating back to 1817, but now sadly closed, as were many of the other shops on the high street.  Lowestoft is also the most Easterly point in Britain, and so, on our second morning in Suffolk, we walked down to Ness Point, so that we could be the most Easterly people in Britain.  As much as we enjoyed the bracing walk along the sea front, we couldn’t shift the thought that it was such a shame that there wasn’t more made of this spot to attract tourists, locals and those looking to do coast-to-coast bike rides alike.

Remnants of the ancient chemist's

Ness Point

Out of Africa....in Suffolk!

After our departure from Lowestoft, our Sunday morning was spent at the wonderful Africa Alive! zoo.  Set in 100 acres of land, Africa Alive! is a recreation of the African Savannah – and all in sunny Suffolk!  From smaller creatures in the farmyard area (including baby goats on the attack!), through to a wonderful viewing platform over the lion enclosure, it’s easy to see how you could spend most of a day here.  We particularly enjoyed the giraffe feeding, and the fun of the walk through the lemur enclosure, where these cute creatures are able to wander freely around your feet; we loved how fifteen lemurs managed to cuddle up against the cold on one tiny stand, and then how they decided to climb on the back of the sheep they shared their enclosure with!

At the Giraffe feeding

A lemur on a sheep's back!

From Africa to Aldeburgh

We love to pack it in during our weekends away, and therefore we made a final stop in the lovely seaside town of Aldeburgh.  Drawn to the town by the lure of the famous fish and chips, Mr Lighty was particularly pleased to see that a classic car show was taking place on the beach front as we drove into the town.  Aldeburgh is full of cute and quirky boutiques – think upmarket gift shops, interior decor shops and fashion outlets – and after a mooch around these and a stroll amongst the vintage cars on the beach, we were ready for our fish and chips.  The queue pretty much said it all about how famous these fish and chips are: we waited half an hour for ours.  However, having been lucky with the British weather, we took them down to the seafront, eating from the paper whilst watching the waves roll in, which proved to be the perfect end to our day.  Aldeburgh sums up for me what Suffolk at its best is about: beautiful and sleepy, but still upmarket and quirky.  And the chips didn’t disappoint either!

The classic car show on Aldeburgh beach front

 

Mr Lighty with his famous Aldeburgh Fish & Chips!