A bonny Bonn Blog

Before I launch into my ‘gone to Bonn’ blog, firstly I must apologise for the inactivity of late; major house renovations followed by  a major birthday celebration followed by major Christmas hosting preparations have meant that I haven’t been travelling nearly as much as I would have liked to this year!  However, I was lucky enough to have escaped to Bonn on a working weekend recently.

Having never been to the former capital of West Germany, I had high expectations of the city, given its history - not to mention the fact that it is the birthplace of one of Germany’s most famous sons, Beethoven.  And it was to be Beethoven that was the focus of our bonny weekend in Bonn, as we were lucky enough to be there for the famous Beethoven festival!

Blink and you’ll miss it!

As always with work familiarisation trips, there just isn’t enough time to see and do everything you’d like to.  The Saturday morning, our first full day in Bonn having arrived at 11pm the night before, saw us taking the tram to nearby Königswinter.  Situated approximately half an hour’s tram or boat ride away, Königswinter is a charming little suburb of Bonn.  Much more traditionally German than the former capital, after our obligatory hotel inspection, we took the time to undertake a little ‘Stadtbümmel’ through the town to get a feel for the place.  My colleague and I were struck by how quiet and peaceful the town was, especially for a Saturday. 

As most people seemed to be enjoying a Stein of beer, or a glass of Prosecco, which appears to be the most popular of wine choices in Germany at the moment, we decided it was high time that we joined them in this relaxing approach to a Saturday morning.  Having already spotted a gorgeous looking restaurant perched high above the Rhine, with a terrace overlooking the river, we enjoyed a glass or two whilst taking in the commanding views of the Rhine Valley.  Had duty not called, I could have quite easily whiled away an hour or two sitting there in the late September sunshine; perhaps with a good book, perhaps just people watching!

Enjoying a little glass of Prosecco gespritzt with Aperol!

Bonn in all its Beethoven glory

After journeying back to Bonn, and stopping for a very, very quick look at Museum Mile en route – which I have to admit I was a little disappointed with, having expected it to be more like Museum Island in Berlin, but finding it to be a stretch of busy road with little character – it was time to meet the crowd who would become our travelling companions.

Our official day then began with a Beethoven themed guided tour, which would eventually take in his birth house and the Chamber Music Hall.  Bonn’s old town is typically German, with an impressive cathedral and market square, presided over by Beethoven.  Our guide told us an amusing anecdote of how, when the seat of the government officially moved back to Berlin after German reunification, students draped Beethoven in a banner stating, “You can all go to Berlin....but I’m staying put!”.  The allure of the city clearly had the student’s hooked!

Bonn Cathedral

Classical music philistines?!

The Beethoven Festival was, of course, to be our main focus of the weekend.  After a fabulous dinner in a restaurant overlooking the river, which included three differently flavoured soups served in three espresso cups – something I’d never seen before! – it was time for the concert.  We were to be treated to a performance by the Bamberg Symphony Orchestra, with the first half being an ‘orchestral painting, colour intensive’ piece by Witold Lutosławski, Symphony No. 3. 

I must admit, I am not an expert in classical music by any stretch of the imagination, but this piece really did go over my head!!  It seemed to have passed the other audience members by too, as, very audibly, someone in the gallery made if quite clear their feelings on the matter with a loud, shouted, German expletive just before the interval! 

After a quick champagne refuelling, it was time for Beethoven’s Symphony no. 5 – something which was much easier to follow, and I could certainly appreciate!

The Bamburg Symphony Orchestra

Relaxing on the Rhine: the perfect Sunday

Sunday dawned bright and early, and after a hearty breakfast, we set out for the Rhine.  This time, we cruised to Königswinter on board the Moby Dick.  It was just the relaxing start we needed, and was soon followed by an equally relaxing ride on the town’s little road train and then a trip on a traditional cog railway, the Drachenfelsbahn, up to Schloss Drachenburg. 

The Moby Dick

The Drachenfels Railway

This was definitely my highlight of the weekend, with the castle rising high into the air, gold and splendid, and set amongst well manicured grounds which must look magnificent in the summer.  Our guide was knowledgeable and amusing, entertaining us with stories of Mr Spinach and his fake organ recitals to entertain his guests in times gone by.  The Rhine is a stunning region of Germany, and Schloss Drachenburg is just one of the many castles which dots its landscape, adding an air of regal charisma into the already beautiful landscape.

Schloss Drachenburg

All in all, Bonn wasn’t at all what I expected it to be – I thought we would see and hear more of the history of its role within the FDR, but then we were there for a Beethoven themed tour, so perhaps this is something that could be explored on a return trip.  However, I wasn’t expecting the charm of nearby Königswinter, and particularly the splendour of Schloss Drachenburg; so perhaps one shouldn’t judge Bonn by its cover; perhaps we should look beyond the obvious, and uncover the gems that await us on the Rhine.

How Berlin's hidden treasures make it Europe’s answer to New York!

Berlin, Berlin – so good they named it.....once!  Yes, ok, it doesn’t quite have the same ring to its name as New York, but seriously, Berlin is one of Europe’s most fabulous cities.  For me, Berlin is Europe’s equivalent of New York.  It’s got that buzz about it: there’s always something going on, the city’s landscape is a constantly changing melting pot of architectural styles and there’s the shadow of the city’s recent history, too.  Just like New York, Berlin is the kind of city that you could go back to again and again and yet see something different each time. 

So how to condense this wonderful city into just one blog post?  Well, pick out some of its many unsung highlights of course! Your first visit will be all about soaking up the atmosphere and seeing the main sights, but I can guarantee that you’ll want to go back again.  Therefore, here are just a few ideas for visits you might want to make on your second, or even third, visit to the city;

Kaffee und Kuchen at the Reichstag

OK, so the Reichstag is somewhere that you’ll definitely want to visit on your first trip to Berlin; its amazing Lord Norman Foster designed glass dome perched high on its roof was enough to make me fall in love with it on my first visit.  But if you’ve already done the Reichstag, how can you do it again and make it different?  Well, one idea is to go once in the daytime and again in the night time; I can promise you that the view will be quite different, yet equally spectacular, both times!  But another way of differentiating your trip and making is a bit different is to take Kaffee und Kuchen on the roof!  Just like a German version of high tea, you’ll be led into elegant surroundings and served elegant cake to match; there’s even gluten free cake for those who need it!  What could be more wonderful than looking out over Berlin with a slice of cake and a cup of coffee in hand?  Fabulous!

Kaffee und Kuchen in the Reichstag!

The Secret Nuclear Bunker at the Story of Berlin Museum

There’s evidence of Berlin’s recent cold war history all over the city.  You may be walking away from the totally modern Sony Centre at Potsdamer Platz when you come across a section of the Berlin Wall, or you may see one of the many mosaic murals which are a left over piece of communist history, and of course, there’s also the imposing Fernsehrturm to remind us of the hold that the Soviets had over the east of the city.  But if you want to experience the cold war from a Western Sector point of view, a visit to the Nuclear Bunker which forms part of the Story of Berlin Museum could be just the ticket.  Cold, dark, damp and rather eerie, you’ll be led down the stairs to this underground hiding place – built to house West Berliners if the city ever came under nuclear attack – and led around the complex with an English speaking guide.  Very interesting, but not somewhere you’d want to spend your whole holiday, that’s for sure!

Inside the very dark Nuclear Bunker!

Schloss Cecilienhof, Potsdam

Technically not in Berlin, and also technically not so-secret, the Cecilienhof Palace in nearby Potsdam is often overshadowed by Sans Souci Palace, also in Potsdam.  But this shouldn’t necessarily be the case; if you have the time to visit both, it’s certainly worth doing so.  Built between 1914 and 1917 and designed to look like an English Tudor country house by Paul Schultze-Naumburg, the palace was commissioned by Emperor Wilhelm II of Germany for his son, Crown Prince Wilhelm and his wife, the Duchess Cecilie of Mecklenburg-Schwerin.  The palace was the location of the Potsdam Conference between 17^th July and 2^nd August 1945, attended by Winston Churchill, Joseph Stalin and Harry S. Truman, whereby the terms for the Japanese surrender during World War II were issued under the Potsdam Declaration.  Yet another example of Berlin’s recent history coming to life in this interesting visit!

Schloss Cecilienhof

The Jewish Museum

Incredibly interesting, the Jewish Museum was designed by American architect, Daniel Libeskind, meaning that not only is the museum itself an informative and fascinating visit, but the architecture of the museum is also worth taking the time to appreciate.  The Museum covers two millennia of Jewish history, and the design of the museum incorporates the very moving Holocaust Tower and the Garden of Exile; certainly architecture to make you think.

The Daniel Libeskind designed Jewish Museum with its Holocaust Tower

East Side Gallery

The East Side Gallery is somewhere that you may wish to see this on your first visit to the city, admittedly, but if you don’t, be sure to see it on your second visit.  The East Side Gallery is a 1.3km long section of the Berlin Wall.  It is covered by approximately 106 paintings and works of graffiti by artists from around the world, making it the largest outside gallery in the world, and showing itself as a symbol for freedom.  A reminder therefore of the city’s past, and a hopeful look towards its future.

The East Side Gallery

It’s easy to see that Berlin is a place of great variety, history and places of interest.  The above is just a taster of the city; I’m sure that you’ll also want to experience the better known sights, such as the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie, the Holocaust Memorial and the Sony Centre, as well as the wonderful shopping and dining opportunities that the city has to offer.  But if you’ve got some spare time, or are back for a second visit, it’s worth checking out the city’s hidden gems – I know there’s plenty more that I need to see; better get round to booking that return trip!

A Tale of Three Countries....

With the once-in-every-ten-year event, The Floriade horticultural exhibition, coming up in Venlo, now really is a great time to visit Holland.  But whilst there, why not sample some of the best of the countries that border the Netherlands too?  That’s exactly what I was lucky enough to do recently on a work trip to visit Holland, Belgium and Germany; a trip that really was a tale of three countries!

Our journey on the continent really began when we stopped in Ghent.  This beautiful Belgian city is often overlooked in favour of Bruges, but sitting just about an hour and a half away from Calais, it’s a great destination for a weekend break from the UK.  Similarly, its gorgeous canals and the St. Bavos Cathedral, famous for its altarpiece, The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by Hubert van Eyck and his younger brother Jan van Eyck, make it a great place to stop on a longer journey, to stretch the legs and for a bite to eat.

Ghent

On from here, we couldn’t leave Belgium and cross into the Netherlands without sampling some Belgian chocolate.  And what better way to do this than by visiting a working Belgian chocolate factory?!  Chocolate Jacques, in Eupen, offers just that: as well as a really interesting museum and a very tempting and reasonably priced shop, visitors can also take a guided tour of the factory, which involves walking along a suspended walk way above the production line!  Very interesting -  after all, everyone loves a conveyor belt!

Travelling on further still to our hotel, and in complete contrast to the light hearted visit of the afternoon, quite by chance, we came across the American War Cemetery.  The sight of row upon row of unmarked graves is humbling at the best of times, but as we stopped here to pay our respects, the setting sun over the snow-covered fields lent a particularly tranquil, almost eerie, feel to the landscape as we realised that those that had fallen may have done so in the freezing cold conditions that we were experiencing, but certainly in much more horrendous circumstances, doing their duty for their country.  A sight to behold on this beautiful, if frosty, afternoon.

The American War Cemetery

Sun setting over the snow-covered fields

Valkenburg was to be our base for the weekend, and the next morning, we had a chance to explore this charming little Dutch town.  Situated just 13kms east of Maastricht, it has the highest number of beds and hotel space in the Netherlands outside of Amsterdam.  And it’s easy to see why: winding cobbled lanes filled with colourful restaurants and souvenir shops, whose brightly hued clogs hang outside for all to see, are enough to enchant the visitor alone.   Add to that the pretty canal twisting through the centre of the town, the castle ruins perched high on a hilltop and accessed via cable car, looking out over the inhabitants below, and the marlstone caves, and you’ve got a recipe for a great little resort town.  From here, you’re also in an excellent position to undertake ‘the tour of three countries’; having sampled some of Belgian the day before, today was to be all about Germany.

Valkenburg

Clogs!

First stop for us on the German agenda was Aachen, although Cologne is also a viable destination from Valkenburg.  The beautiful Roman Spa city of Aachen is dominated by the imposing Cathedral, and as we visited on this bright and sunny morning, it reached high into the blue skies above us.  From here, we then visited the smaller town of Brühl.  Another gem of a town, the real treasure in its crown being Schloß Augustusburg.  This Rococo masterpiece was a favourite residence of the Electors of Cologne, and as you approach the castle, it’s easy to see why: manicured gardens border a magnificent golden palace, and it’s just as beautiful inside as it is out; the castle is used for state receptions, and as we walked in the footsteps of Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth II, as well as many other dignitaries, up the exquisite and very impressive Balthasar Neumann staircase, it was apparent why it’s not only used for state receptions but is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

A very cold me at Schloss Augustusburg!

On our last day we briefly took in some more of the Netherlands with a quick visit to Maastricht (if only these work trips allowed more time in places!) before taking in more still of Belgium.  We firstly visited the Caves of Remouchamps, which were first opened to the public in 1912. The tour here today consists not only of a walk through the pre-historic caves, but also a boat trip which glides mysteriously over the underground river.  The town of Remouchamps itself has almost an Alpine feel, and is a great place to stop for a coffee and Belgian waffle!

Our last visit of the trip was to be to the Gardens of Annevoie; although snow covered during our visit, it was easy to see their attraction.  The water gardens offered us a peaceful stop at the end of a busy trip – what better way to unwind before the long drive back to Calais?!

The Gardens of Annevoie

The Belgian Ardennes and their surrounding countryside are an often overlooked part of the continent, but there’s no reason why this should be the case.  With a base as appealing as Valkenburg to explore Holland from, and both Germany and Belgium nearby, a driving holiday here really is a great way to explore the hidden gems of Northern Europe!